How To Get Rid of Bed Bugs - DIY and Exterminators

"Good night, sleep tight, don't let the bed bugs bite." This common goodnight verse may be truer than you think. Bed bugs are worldwide travelers, notorious for latching on to luggage items and stowing away to a new destination. When you consider all of the travelers and the hotels and motels all over the world, it is easy to understand why bed bugs seem to be making a comeback.

Where do bed bugs come from? Bed bugs are very small, and often make their way into your house after traveling. Bedbugs often end up infesting entire apartment buildings or hotels - and it can be very expensive to get rid of them on that kind of a scale. Here's more information about this notorious traveler:

    Bed Bugs- A bed bug is typically a brownish colored, wingless insect between one fourth and a half-inch long. They look a lot like ticks - please see the bed bug pictures below. Bed bugs can survive for up to a year without feeding on a blood source, so figuring out how to kill bed bugs is a real challenge. These parasites are able to hide in small cracks and crevices, are difficult to find, and even harder to eradicate. Females can lay up to 300 eggs, which hatch within ten days, thus creating an ever-growing population.
    Bed Bug Bites- Often, bed bug bites are the easiest way to tell you have bedbugs. A bed bug's main source of nutrition is blood, and they bite using their beaklike mouths, piercing the skin. Different people react to bed bug bites in different ways. Some may never know they've been bitten, while others may experience severe inflammation and possible infection as some of their bed bug symptoms. Most of the bites are so small that they can't be felt. However, a typical sign of a bed bug bite is a small, swollen, white welt that forms at the bite location. Many people who have been bitten by bed bugs experience pronounced itching in the bite area. Please be aware: although most bedbug bites are just annoying, some people experience asthma, hives, and even dangerous, life-threatening allergies. 

Finding Bed Bugs-Bed bugs are good at hiding. In fact, you really have to search and know what you are looking for before you may find a bed bug. In many instances, evidence of a bed bug is discovered rather than the actual bug itself. Rusty spots on sheets and mattresses caused by a crushed bug or a bug's fecal matter (which looks like tiny black specks or very small dots of blood) may be the first indication that a bed bug infestation has occurred, along with eggshells and shed skin. Most bed bugs can be found in the crevices and cracks of mattresses, chairs, and sofas. They are often found between the headboard and a wall as well. Because bed bugs prefer wood and fabric over plastic and metal, they tend to dwell in the more lived-in areas of a home or building, such as a bedroom or hotel room. If you aren't sure whether you have bed bugs, many exterminators can give your home a professional inspection. While some pest control companies will do this for free, other exterminators charge up to $200. There are even specialized bed bug exterminator companies that use trained dogs to sniff out bed bugs - however, this service is significantly more expensive than a standard inspection. Still, dogs can help you find out if you have a bed bug infestation.

    Getting Rid of Bed Bugs- Once an infestation has occurred, patience and persistence is the key to ridding the area of bed bugs. If you are determined to get rid of bed bugs yourself, without hiring an exterminator, it isn't enough to clean the mattresses and launder the sheets. Furniture should be overturned and cleaned. Carpeting, wood molding, door jambs, picture frames, and closets should be inspected as well. Bed bugs can hide behind loose wallpaper, in the crevices between carpets and walls, behind outlet covers, and inside light fixtures, smoke detectors, and even clocks. Removable, washable items can be laundered in very hot water. For those areas or items that cannot be laundered, smaller items can be wrapped in plastic and set in a hot place or in direct sunlight. The key is to raise the temperature to at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit for several hours to kill the eggs and the bugs. Vacuuming and steam cleaning may also be done, but any bags or canisters should be thrown away or emptied outside of the area immediately to prevent another infestation. Unfortunately, it's very hard to find all bed bugs and all bed bug eggs; that's why the best method of removing them is through the services of a professional.

    When choosing a professional bed bug exterminator, be careful! Many companies that only specialize in bedbugs aren't as qualified as full-service pest control companies. Your best bet is to find an established pest control service company that has been in service for at least five years - and you might also ask around and see if anybody you know or look at review sites (like yelp.com) to see if there are recommendations for any specific pest control services. Also, make sure the pest control company you choose is certified in your state. Exterminators can be pretty expensive; expect to pay between $250 to $1,000 per room. You'll also want to make sure you choose a pest control company that will make follow-up visits - these are usually necessary for bed bug elimination.

    Once you sift through the exterminators and make a decision, make sure they are using effective pesticides and bed bug control methods. Usually, exterminators will use a combination of pesticides and steam heat - bed bugs only die from heat if the temperature is at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that's sustained for several hours. Do not use a pest control company that uses bug foggers or bug bombs as their method for bed bugs; these methods do not work. The only effective bed bug extermination methods for pesticides include direct contact.

    Don't Try These Methods-Finally, there are several methods that are totally useless and shouldn't even be considered. Bug bombs and aerosol pesticides will not rid an area of bed bugs. While extreme hot and cold temperatures may affect the infestation, below freezing temperatures will only work if those temperatures remain below freezing for over two weeks.

How To Choose a Snow Blower: Electric Snow Blower

If you live in an area that receives a lot of snow every winter, you know that the first snowfall is a fun novelty.  Every one after that is hard work!  The biggest job that needs to be done is clearing the driveway and sidewalk--and the best way to make this tough job easier is with a snow blower (or snow thrower, as they're more accurately called). Get tips to find the best one for you.

    Do you need a single-stage or two-stage snow blower?  There are many differences between the two types.  Single-stage snow blowers have a metal and rubber auger that spins very quickly, contacts the ground and scoops up the snow, directing it into a discharge chute, which throws it out of your path.  Single-stage snow blowers are also lighter and generally require less maintenance than two-stage blowers.  The drawbacks of single-stage blowers are that they have two-cycle engines, which create more emissions and require you to mix oil and gasoline before filling the tank.  Also, because the auger contacts the ground, you cannot use them on gravel surfaces, unless your goal is to have small rocks flying toward you and the windows in your home.  Single-stage snow blowers do not have as much power as two-stage blowers, so they're not appropriate for areas that receive more than six inches in one snowfall or that receive heavy, wet snow.

    Two-stage snow blowers are heavier and more expensive than single-stage blowers, but the clearing path is wider, usually between 20 and 31 inches.  Unlike a single-stage blower, two-stage snow blowers have a slow-turning metal auger that scoops up the snow, which is then sucked up by an impeller and thrown out through the discharge chute.  The auger on a two-stage blower doesn't touch the ground, so they can be used on gravel.  You will need to be sure to set the scraper bar high enough that it doesn't contact the gravel.

    Two-stage snow blowers will handle most wet, heavy snowfalls with ease, as well as deeper snowfalls of up to twelve inches.  In addition, two-stage blowers are self-propelled, so you only need to guide them.  This doesn't necessarily mean they're easy to handle, as anyone who's ever been covered in a mountain of snow tossed by his own snow blower can attest!  Most two-stage blowers have at least two forward speeds and one reverse speed.  They also have a four-cycle engine, which is cleaner and doesn't require mixed fuel.  One disadvantage is that they do not provide as clear a path as a single-stage blower, since the auger never touches the ground.

    Once you've decided which kind of snow blower is right for you, you'll need to decide how wide its clearing path should be.  As mentioned before, single-stage blowers have a narrower clearing path than two-stage blowers, although within these general guidelines, there is a lot of variation.  Some factors to consider in this decision are:  How much space do you have in which to store your snow blower and how comfortable are you in handling it?  A machine with a wider clearing path will obviously take up more space in your garage and be more difficult to handle, especially when turning.
    Next, decide which options are most important to you.  You'll probably want a discharge chute that can be adjusted while the machine is in use, so that you don't throw snow onto an area that you just finished clearing.  Some machines have a manual crank which is located on the handle.  Others have a joystick, which mechanically controls the direction of the chute.  Either one will work just fine for most people--it's simply a matter of personal preference.  Another option that's very useful during the short days of winter is a headlight.  If you find yourself spending a lot of time clearing snow in the dark, this can be a worthwhile investment.  If you do not enjoy the thought of standing around trying to get your snow blower started in the cold, you may want an electric start.  Some snow blowers also have heated handgrips as an option!
    If you receive only occasional, light snowfalls or have a very small space to clear, you may want to consider an electric snow blower.  You will have to contend with a power cord if you choose an electric snow blower, so you'll need to make sure you have both a long extension cord and a nearby outlet.  Another option for very light snowfalls is a power shovel.  These look like a combination of a weed trimmer and a scoop shovel.  They have an auger in front which blows the snow in your path ahead of you.  These do not have wheels, so they are not appropriate for heavier snowfalls.

Now you can pick the best snow blowers for your needs. With a little bit of planning, these tools will turn a tedious, time-consuming task into a quick, (almost) easy job!

Caring for a Lawn: Watering, Mowing, Weed Control, Fertilizers

Chemical lawn care is a ruse, a marketing scheme. Grass, as all gardeners know, is a tenacious weed that needs little help to be healthy. But Americans weaken their lawns with unnecessary chemicals, harsh fertilizing salts, and improper cutting and lawn watering, causing lawn problems.

Grow the right grass at the right height and you will be amazed at how easy care of a great expanse of green can be. Here are some lawn care tips to help you along and teach you how to care for your lawn without the help of any companies. 

    Plant the right grass. Growing the right grass the right way depends on where you live.
        In the North, you want a "cool-season" grass. Always green over winter, it may go brown and dormant during a hot and dry spell in late summer, but will quickly green up again when cool weather returns.
        In the South, go "warm season". Always green over the summer, it may go brown and dormant during a winter cold snap, but will green up again when the weather warms.
        In the "Transition Zone" in the middle of the country, choose 'cool' or 'warm' depending on which spell of potential dormancy would bother you more, or mix similar-looking cool and warm season grasses to try and achieve a multi-grass lawn that's green all year.
    Plant at the right time of year. Planting grass depends on if you live in a cool or warm season area, so the best time to plant grass seed varies.
        Cool-season grasses should only be sown in the fall-August 1-15 for the far North; August 15 - 30 for more moderate Northern climes. Cool season seed that's sown in the spring will burn up when summer's heat fries the young growth.
        Warm season grasses should be sown in the spring, as soon as the soil is warm enough to germinate the seed.
        If you can't wait and must plant at the wrong time of year, lay sod instead. It's much more expensive than seed, but does well pretty much anytime of the year if kept watered.
    Feed correctly Lawn care and fertilization go hand-in-hand.

    Cool season grasses should get their biggest feeding in the fall. Lawn fertilizers can consist of an inch of compost applied to the surface and raked-in will provide the perfect amount of food and improve the structure of the soil below. Feed again lightly in the spring; 10 to 20 pounds of corn gluten meal per thousand square feet of turf will prevent dormant weed seeds like crabgrass from germinating and provide a natural feeding. Be sure its labeled as a natural pre-emergent weed and feed ('cattle feed' corn gluten will not work); and apply it before local forsythia bushes reach peak bloom or those weed seeds will have already germinated.
    Warm season grasses should get three equal feedings in June, July and August; an inch of compost or 10 pounds of corn gluten is ideal for each feeding.
    NOTE: Pre-emergents prevent the germination of ALL seeds. Do not use corn gluten when you seed a lawn.

Cut at the right height. Lawn mowing is different throughout the country and the height you need to cut will vary.

    Cool season grasses in full sun, like the legendary Kentucky bluegrass, should be cut at two to three inches high. Shade-loving fescues at three to three and a half inches.
    Warm season grasses thrive with a closer cut-around two inches for St. Augustine and Bermuda grass.
    NOTE: Those are the heights the lawn should be AFTER you're done cutting. "Scalping a lawn" lower sends it into shock and makes it vulnerable to pests, weeds, disease and weeds, which makes weed control a nightmare. A high cut lawn will look greener, grow slower and resist stress better.

Cut correctly. Replace your mower blade every season; it won't cost much more than getting it sharpened and will give you a much cleaner cut. Never remove more than a third of the lawn's height in any one mowing.
Use a mulching mower. These specialized cutters have no discharge; their sealed decks and ultra-sharp blades cut and re-cut the clippings until they are returned to the lawn as a fine pulverized powder. Rich in grass-feeding nitrogen, those clips provide half the food your grass needs in a season. AND MULCHING DOESN'T CAUSE THATCH! Thatch is caused by overuse of chemical fertilizers, not returning natural nutrients to your lawn.
Water wisely. Never water during the heat of the day or in the evening. The ideal time is in the early morning. Don't water in short spurts. Deliver a deep soaking when you water to encourage deep roots. Take special care when watering a new lawn.

    In the North, water when you have gone a week without an inch of rain. Deliver that inch in one long soaking, which should take several hours.
    In the South, your lawn will need two inches of water a week in summer. Supply whatever nature doesn't in long, inch-deep soakings.

How To Make a Compost Bin: Homemade Compost Bins

You probably already know that composting is the process of breaking down waste into a nutrient-rich topsoil. Rich soil can cure a host of maladies in your garden. If you have a problem with pests attacking your plants, compost can make the plants healthier so that they can fight off infestations more easily. If your soil structure is very sandy, composting can give it structure. It can also improve clay soil by breaking it down into smaller particles. Adding composted mulch can replace the nutrients that have been stripped from your soil by years of gardening. So, with all of these benefits, you can't wait to start composting, right?

Here's what you'll need to know when making a compost pile:

You will need to decide what kind of compost bin you would like. There are four basic types of bins--portable, stationary, multi-bin and rotating. Here's how to make all of them.

A portable compost bin can be moved, when empty. This allows you to keep it in an inconspicuous place. The disadvantage of this type of bin is that it's usually fairly small, which means it doesn't break down waste as quickly as a larger bin would. It can also be harder to aerate your compost pile, which is vital to maintaining high temperatures.
To build a portable compost bin:

    Purchase a 12' length of galvanized chicken wire, several wire ties and four metal stakes.
    Fold back each end of the chicken wire several inches so there's no rough edge. Wrap it into a circle and stand it on the ground.
    Tie the chicken wire together with the wire ties. If you would like your bin to be more stable, space the metal stakes around the inside of the circle, secure them to the wire and pound them into the ground.
    When you need to aerate your compost, unwrap the wire from the stakes, turn the pile, then replace the wire. Alternatively, you could make two separate bins and turn the pile from one into the other.

A stationary bin is designed to stay in one spot. The main advantage to this type of system is that it can be larger, so compost breaks down much more quickly, sometimes in as little as one year.

    A stationary compost bin can be made for almost nothing by using wood pallets. These are used mostly by manufacturing facilities and are usually discarded after they've been used. Many facilities will give them away if you ask. For this bin, you will need five or six wood pallets and a package of galvanized nails.
    Stand four of the pallets on their sides in a square. The square should be about three feet by three feet. Nail the pallets together. Nail another pallet to the top (flat side in). This will form the base of your compost bin. Flip the bin over. If you're really handy, you can attach two hinges to one side of the remaining pallet. Attach the other side of the hinges to one side of your compost bin. Now, you have a lid to keep out pests.
    To turn your compost, use a pitchfork and scoop from the bottom to the top and inside to outside.

If you have a lot of waste to compost or you just don't like trying to turn the pile, you may want to build a multi-bin system.

    Start just as before, with four pallets nailed together into a square, then attach a pallet to the bottom. Next, nail three more pallets to one side of the original square, then use another pallet for the base of this bin. You can continue to expand upon this theme, creating a multi-bin system as large as you wish.
    You could also create a multi-bin system with a removable door. Nail together three of the pallets, then screw a latch into two opposite sides of the remaining pallet and the front edge of your bin. If you use a base with this type of bin, be sure to nail it to the pallets only on the back and two sides, not the front.

A rotating bin eliminates the problem of turning the pile. This type of compost bin is basically a drum mounted on a stand with a crank on the side. Just toss in your scraps and lawn waste, then turn the crank once a month and you're set. This kind of bin is quite complex to make. Most people choose to purchase one, instead.

Now, you know how to build a compost bin and you're ready to start making compost. Remember to add equal parts of dried waste, such as leaves and lawn trimmings, and fresh waste, such as kitchen scraps. Sprinkle the pile with water every few layers to keep it moist. If your compost pile is well-balanced, it should be quite hot. In fact, you may see steam rising from it. It should not have an unpleasant odor. To avoid attracting unwanted animals, do not put meat scraps in your pile. When your compost is ready to use, it will be very dark brown and crumbly, much like potting soil. Add it to your garden or pots when putting in new plants and watch them grow!

How To Grow and Care for Banana Trees

Banana trees aren't actually trees at all--they are very large perennial herbs. While you'd normally associate banana trees with warm, tropical climates, these plants can also be grown in other zones with success, as long as you prepare them for the cold weather.  No matter where you live though, there are a few things you'll need to know in order to keep your banana trees thriving.

    Banana plants prefer a light, well-draining soil. You can aid in the drainage quality of your planting beds by adding raised areas above heavier soil to allow the thin roots of the banana tree to spread.
    Choose the warmest location on your property for banana plants. They really need full sun; twelve hours a day is optimal. If you live in a temperate climate, your banana plants will also need protection from wind and cold. Banana trees do not like winter!
    If you plan to keep growing banana plants throughout the year and live in a zone with seasonal cold weather, choose cold tolerant varieties of banana trees such as Musa Basjoo, Saja, and Ice Cream.
    Some banana plants are strictly ornamental, while others bear fruit. Read tag descriptions carefully so you'll know what to expect. Almost all banana plants have the potential to grow very tall, except for dwarf varieties. Be prepared for this - young plants won't stay so small. If you want a short banana tree plant, you need to invest in a dwarf banana tree, like Musa Dwarf.

Keep the area surrounding the banana plants free of weeds and other plants. Adding a layer of mulch will help to prevent weeds from returning to the garden.
Water your banana trees whenever the soil feels dry. Avoid standing water, however. Mix some fertilizer with the water each time you water the area, and check the soil frequently to see how dry or moist it is.
You won't need to prune your banana plants unless you want to scale them back for esthetic purposes, or if you wish to cultivate seedlings for new plants. Remove damaged or rotted leaves and fruit periodically.
After fruiting, cut the banana plant down to the ground. The mother plant will no longer be able to produce fruit, so by cutting it down, you're essentially allowing the roots to regenerate and produce a new plant.
In cold weather, you can store cold-tolerant varieties of banana plants for the winter. Cut the plants down to the ground and cover the area with a thick layer of mulch. Top off the mulch with a layer of strong plastic to provide insulation to keep the roots and soil around them as warm as possible.
Alternatively, you can bring the entire plant or just the root system indoors for the winter. If the plants are on the smaller side, you can simply dig them up and replant them in containers. Keep them indoors near a sunny window without drafts, and tend to them as you would a houseplant.
For larger banana trees, strip back all of the leaves before digging up the roots. Gently brush off any excess soil from the root system and replant the trunk in a large container filled with slightly dampened sand. Bring the plant indoors and store in a warm area of your home. Don't water or fertilize at all; instead, allow the plant to go dormant for the winter, and replant in your garden when the weather is warmer.

How To Grow Plants in the Classroom

Growing plants in the classroom is an excellent way to get students excited about science!

    Start with seeds in the classroom. For very young children, it is exciting just to see the seeds germinate. You can do this by wrapping seeds or beans in wet paper towels and placing them in a clear plastic bag. The seeds should begin germinating in a few days, which can give the students an idea of what is happening underground when plants begin to grow.
    Continue with seedlings in the classroom. At the same time as the seeds are beginning to germinate, plant the same type of seeds in dirt. Students can draw conclusions about what exactly is happening under the soil and even draw diagrams. They can also predict how long it will be before a sprout appears and is visible above the soil.
    Grow native plants in your classroom. A quick Internet search or trip to a plant nursery should let you know which plants are native to your area. This can tie the plant-growing in the classroom in with natural history and other social studies lessons. Also, after growing the plants in your classroom, you can take the students on field trips to see where the plants grow naturally.

    Try growing plants hydroponically. Can plants be grown without soil? There is actually a long history of hydroponics, or growing plants without soil -- dating back to the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. You can integrate history into your science lessons as you are growing plants in the classroom, hydroponically! Have your students research how plants absorb nutrients when no soil is available.
    Explore the needs of plants. What do plants need to stay alive? Are there exceptions? This can be explored quite successfully by growing plants in the classroom and making observations along the way. Which variables are necessary and which help plants grow better?
    Grow a salad. Fun for every age group: grow all the ingredients for a salad! Lettuce, radishes, and carrots can all be grown fairly easily, and tomatoes can be grown for those who want more of a challenge. The best part about growing a salad is that at the end of the unit, your class can eat what you have grown!
    Try to start an outdoor garden at your school. While this is not technically growing plants in the classroom, it can benefit the entire school to have an outdoor garden. Students and classes can take turns being responsible for watering and weeding, and a larger variety of plants can be grown.

However you decide to grow plants in the classroom, it is sure to be an exciting science lesson. Students of all ages get fulfillment from growing things - and they can let their creativity run wild with their own gardens!

How To Design a Garden Path

The first and biggest decision in designing a garden path is deciding what you want your path to do.  Paths can suggest that someone did walk lightly through your garden or they can be design statements all by themselves.  Will your garden path be built for many people who wish to travel from beginning to end, or for just one or two to leisurely stroll along? Some of these design questions can be answered by taking online design courses; you can get free enrollment information for the most popular online design schools here.

Let's find out what is best for your garden.
Step 1

Decide if your garden is formal or informal. The formal garden is usually symmetrical, with hedges, concrete or masonry features and probably a concrete, paver or brick path. The formal garden path will be straight and wide, ending in a formal patio. The path will most likely be wide enough for at least two people to walk abreast. The formal garden path is part of the architecture of the garden.
Step 2

Think informal. Most of us, if we have not hired a landscape architect or contractor, have an informal garden. The informal garden path will separate two garden rooms in the informal garden. Think of your path as a way to get you and your friends through your garden. The path forces visitors to walk where you want them to go.
Step 3

Carefully decide how you want people to walk through your garden. Chances are your garden path will not be a straight line through your garden. It will wind and bend. The path will make people go at the speed you want them to go and end up where you want them to.
Step 4

Use the proper materials. If you are designing a formal path, consider concrete, pavers or bricks. Often you can build your own path, but if it demands the skill of a mason, be sure to hire one.
Step 5

Use natural materials for an informal path. If you have an informal garden with several rooms, several beds, garden art and whimsy, use flat rocks, pea gravel or even mulch for your path. Use flat rocks and plant creeping plants or steppables between them. If you use plant material that can be walked on, you can smell the thyme or pennyroyal between the rocks as you walk.
Step 6

Make a path narrow if you want one or two people abreast and want them to walk slowly.  A wide path will make people hurry on through.
A garden path adds a focal point to your garden. It defines your garden and allows people a great way to tour your garden the way you want it toured. Have fun designing your path. If you don't like your natural path with rocks or pea gravel, it is easy to change it whenever you wish.  You can learn other excellent design ideas by taking some online classes in design.